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Due chiacchiere con Pete Searson di Tellason

Denim, storia e vestibilità. Tre argomenti che stanno molto a cuore ai ragazzi di Tellason

Enrico) Parlando di tessuti e processi di lavoro, come vi posizionate?

Pete) Tutta questa storia dell’heritage è grande perchè i principi che sono alla base sono eccezionali. Alcuni di questi marchi sono sul mercato da più di cent’anni e c’è una ragione per cui ci sono rimaste per così tanto tempo. Dietro tutto l’hype, credo che la filosofia di questo movimento sia veramente positiva, soprattutto rispetto a quelle che nel passato hanno governato il mondo della moda.
A noi fa piacere parlare di cimose e di vecchi telai per via dell’accezione romantica che sta dietro a tutto ed è incredibile vedere questi macchinari, vecchi di 75 anni, ancora al lavoro per realizzare prodotti per il mercato di oggi. Per esempio l’idea di utilizzare vecchio materiale militare per la nostra collaborazione ci era piaciuta molto ma questo non vuol dire che ci piace l’idea di realizzare un jeans che vesta come quelli che vestivano negli anni ’20 o ’30. Tutta la faccenda delle repliche è interessante ed ha sicuramente la sua clientela di riferimento ma noi ci vogliamo concentrare su come vogliamo che i nostri jeans vestano: lo straight leg è un modello in circolazione da sempre ma ci sono sottili cambiamenti nei fianchi o nella vita che cambiano veramente il fit di un pantalone.
Si tratta di applicare la sensibilità romantica e le vecchie nozioni a vestibilità più moderne.

Enrico) Qualche sviluppo futuro nella presenza sul mercato o nella strategia?

Pete) In America c’è un marchio che si chiama WD40, un lubrificante spray, nato durante la Seconda Guerra e rimasto pressochè invariato per 70 anni. Quando vedi questa lattina blu con le lettere gialle sai esattamente cosa avrai.
Se riusciamo a legittimarci come uno dei migliori jeans in circolazione, anche agli occhi di quelli che non sono denim aficionados, nel momento in cui decideremo di realizzare un prodotto diverso – una borsa, una camicia o semplicemente un nuovo fit – la nostra customer base probabilmente sarà incuriosita e vorrà provarlo. Per farla breve, se hanno avuto un’esperienza positiva con il nostro primo paio di jeans, vuol dire che si è stabilita una connessione.
Siamo molto pazienti: ho lavorato in questo mercato per circa 21 anni e non ho nessuna necessità di tuffarmi di getto in qualche progetto. Abbiamo comunque il desiderio di portare qualche novità ma a suo tempo. Per noi è più importante, in questa fase, realizzare qualcosa che parli di noi, da dove veniamo e del tipo di cose che portiamo durante tutto l’anno. Anche per questo non è nostra intenzione creare capi fortemente stagionali – come un piumino o uno short. La mia esperienza mi dice che i negozianti apprezzano questa strategia.
Vogliamo sicuramente completare il marchio, ma seguendo le giuste tempistiche.

Enrico) Bene…grazie mille per il tuo tempo, Pete

Pete) Grazie a voi!


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