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Soulland SS2011 collection | The Suit

In un’epoca in cui si è detto tutto non restano che le citazioni. Appurato che il kitsch non è più kitsch ormai, ma una torrida mise barocca pericolosamente confinante col travestitismo, ed esaurite le ragioni per un certo sperimentalismo hardcore I designer tornano a confrontarsi con I temi classici della moda.
Una sorta di restaurazione dello stile? Può darsi.
Forse, però, è più un tentativo di riconsiderare la nozione di anticonformismo. Il bisogno di uscire dalle righe è insito nell’uomo ma ormai la moda cerca altre strade per soddisfare questo bisogno.
Silas Adler, alias Soulland, affronta la questione traendo ispirazione dalla poesia di Leonard Cohen in cui si parla proprio della ricerca della trasgressione: «per me la poesia di Cohen ha a che vedere con la sottile linea tra la condizione di maturità e la necessità di rompere gli schemi». Una dicotomia che lo stilista scandinavo traduce in una collezione d’ispirazione classica – per lui un genere assolutamente nuovo – in cui il lato sovversivo è dato da elementi anticonvenzionali più che da un taglio apertamente disinibito.
Trattasi, perlopiù, di dettagli che tradiscono una certa ironia, una maniera più modernamente disinvolta di stare al mondo. E a farne le spese è anche l’abito, il capo maschile per eccellenza, al quale Adler imprime un carattere esotico, sdoganandolo dalla sua immagine d’icona algida e statica. Una prova interessante, specie se si considera che è la prima volta che lo stilista si cimenta con i capi tradizionali della moda maschile: «se qualcuno mi avesse chiesto 3 anni fa di fare degli abiti con molta probabilità non avrei saputo da dove cominciare; forse è per questo che lo trovo così stimolante ora. Ed è anche la prova dell’evoluzione di Soulland che dalla t-shirt approda all’abito». E la prova che per uscire dai binari non si deve fare necessariamente troppo rumore.

«Voglio rischiare di più, sporgermi illegalmente dalla finestra di un treno, e solo per andare dal barbiere indossare una fedora

Leonard Cohen
- The Suit